Who Makes A Decent Gas Water Heater (40 Gal. Gas)?
Posted on | December 9, 2009 | 3 Comments
Our RUUD Pacemaker gas water heater lasted an astounding 17 or 18 years, but finally started leaking. I saw loads of complaints about Ruud/Rheem water heaters. It seems in about 1998 or 99 the quality went in the toilet so to speak. We are looking for another 40 gallon gas water heater. Who makes a decent one. I would go with a tankless, but I do not get final say, and I do not want to stay here in this area any longer than needed. Who makes a decent water heater?
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3 Responses to “Who Makes A Decent Gas Water Heater (40 Gal. Gas)?”
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December 9th, 2009 @ 7:08 pm
All of the manufacturers make good water heaters.
The key is knowing that water heater manufacturers must follow very strict safety guidelines now. As a part of this, you can’t just install and forget about your water heater. The maintenance in the water heater instruction manual must be performed, including regular draining and flushing, the use of an expansion tank, and periodically replacing the anode rod.
Here is something to remember. Names such as Whirlpool, GE, and Maytag are not made by those companies.
AO Smith, State, Rheem/Ruud, Bradford White, American Water Heater, and Lochinvar are your major manufacturers. They build the heaters for places such as Lowes, Sears, and Home Depot, under the names of Whirlpool, Kenmore, GE, etc.
The key is the maintenance. If you perform the maintenance, you can expect 15-20 years out of the heater.
As far as a tankless heater goes, there are some serious issues to consider. Yes, they do save energy because of the efficiency and lack of energy lost in storage-type water heaters, but the modifications needed can be very expensive.
The gas line currently supplying your water heater is most likely inadequate to supply the gas needs of an on-demand heater. An on demand heater must heat the water as it passes through the heater, and takes 4-5 times the volume of gas needed in a standard heater.
The on demand heater uses less gas over time, but uses much more while it is in operation. As a result, the gas supply line will likely need to be changed. It is also possible that your existing gas meter will need to be upgraded.
When venting an on-demand heater, you have to use special vent material. Because of the efficiency and exhaust temperature of the on demand unit, you will have condensation. The venting material can be very expensive. If you live in a climate that the outside temperatures can reach to lower than negative 30F, you cannot use an exterior mounted unit, and venting will be necessary.
December 10th, 2009 @ 1:03 am
Have you considered “tankless?”
December 10th, 2009 @ 7:28 am
If you choose to replace your existing tank-type water meter with a similar unit, then purchase based on warranty and efficiency. They are all pretty much the same thing once you get past the name on the box.
There are refinements, however, should you wish to indulge in them. Some of the newer units are pilotless – and in the average application, that pilot will use up to 20% of the total gas annually – sometimes even more. Some are ‘induced draft’ units that can vent directly to the exterior without needing a flue and some even have electronic dampers to save even more energy. All these things cost, however, so you need to determine whether the first-cost is worth the extended payback period.
If you choose to go tankless, you will realize even more savings if you understand the nature of these beasts and compensate for them in your behavior. They need flow to operate, and sometimes a very low flow is not enough to trigger them. Otherwise, they are extremely effective and will truly prodice endless hot water at their rated capacity as long as is needed. And the tax credit is no small thing either.
Some myths and misconceptions:
a) No special venting is required beyond that for any other appliance of a similar rating. So, if you have a 4″ vent available, you will be fine. And if you wish to vent directly to the exterior, most units are available with an induced-vent system that uses standard heavy-wall galvanized stovepipe for their discharge. The only ‘special’ requirement is that exposed pipe should have all the seams caulked with heat-resistant caulk (“red” silicon).
b) No special metering or piping is required. A standard half-inch gas-line at standard utility pressure home-run to the manifold will be enough to carry it. Put it this way, if you have natural gas central heat or can run your natural gas kitchen range all four burners and the oven, you have adequate capacity. Typically, a unit with similar capacity to your 40-gallon unit by fixture count will draw about 120,000 BTU/h maximum gas use – about the size of a moderate sized central heater. And that peak will only be at full-flow. These units modulate from about 30,000 BTU/h (about the same as your 40-gallon unit) to the full requirement if you are running at full flow. And your utility will do a meter change at no cost on the remote chance that your present meter is inadequate.
We have kept one of these units at our summer house for now almost 12 years, with excellent reliability and remarkably low energy use. And where the option is between a tank type and a tankless type stand-alone unit, I would suggest the tankless type nearly every time. Nearly, as there as some individuals for whom it is not suited based on their habits. Those who like to leave the hot water running at a trickle when doing dishes will find this system frustrating, for example.
But, if you are looking for a cheap replacement and a quick-and-easy installation, go for a simple direct replacement. No fuss, no muss and as you suggest, likely you will not be there long enough for the more efficient types to pay off.